Growing and Using Herbs: Basil

There are so many different kinds of basil to grow these days! All beautiful and uniquely fragrant! I grow lots of it! In fact I grow it everywhere I can! It’s even pretty enough to grow in flower beds, enhancing the aroma and keeping pests away! I usually buy a few starts to get a head start on the harvest, but this year I started my own seeds under lights and grew more, directly sowing them into the ground as a border around some of my vegetable beds. I am now harvesting from my larger plants, throwing it into green salads, pastas and making fresh pesto (see recipe below)! Basil is a sun loving, tender annual herb and needs to be planted by starts or seeds after the danger of frost has past. Usually around the middle of May. Be sure to cut the flowers off so the plant doesn’t go to seed extending the leaf growth all season long!

There are many health benefits to basil some include protection from certain cancers because of it’s high levels of flavonoids and anti-oxidants, protecting our body from free radical damage and cholesterol. Basil is also an excellent source of magnesium, improving blood flow, and promoting cardiovascular health and well being. Essential oils found in basil have long been effective as organic alternatives in treating dry skin, acne, psoriasis and even ear infections. Basil’s not just an herb to sprinkle on spaghetti, basil has important antibacterial properties. When applied to the skin or surfaces, basil fights back against bacteria and so much more. Not just any old herb, basil’s got anti-inflamatory properties second-to-none that can provide much-needed relief from all kinds of conditions, including inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) conditions. Basis is also reportedly helpful in treating constipation, indigestion, stomach cramps, and more.

Harvesting Basil

When harvesting basil cut 1/4 of an inch above the first or second main stem where it begins to branch out. This will force the outside stems to grow bigger, allowing for more harvest later! Be sure to not cut off anymore than a 1/3 of the plant to allow enough energy to keep the plant alive. Cutting basil on a regular basis will help encourage more growth!

Other varieties I grow in my garden!

Fresh Basil Pesto

Freshly made basil pesto is a little piece of heaven in my kitchen! The fragrance and flavor are hard to beat and only seasonal which makes it even more beloved! This simple recipe is perfect for so many different kinds of recipes! Try putting it on pasta, pizza, bruschetta, tomatoes, other veggies, sandwiches and crackers. There are endless possibilities!

Recipe

In a food processor blend 1 cup almonds or other desired nut. I prefer almonds because they are mild in flavor and less expensive than pine nuts.

While processor is going add 4 cups packed fresh basil leaves

Add 1 cup olive oil to keep the mixture from sticking.

Add 2-4 cloves garlic

1 cup good Parmesan cheese

Juice of 2 lemons

Sea salt and pepper to taste.

If you like your pesto a thinner consistency, add more olive oil.

June 25, 2013September 4, 2013

Harvesting Onion Seeds

This week in the garden I am harvesting my scallion seeds planted from last fall. All onions among other vegetables like carrots, parsley, Swiss chard, kale and beets to name a few, produce seed their second year. They are considered biannual. If these plants produce seed in their first year discard them, for they are not viable. In order to save seeds every year, try planting a fall crop of these varieties and allow to grow and go to seed in the early summer the following year. Replant again in the beginning of August and start again! The seed saving process is very simple. As you can see from the picture above, my sweet little honey bee is collecting pollen from the blossom. I had bees all over my onion blossoms this year! They loved them! Once the flower starts to dry it will produce seeds within the head.

In the picture above you can see the flower head dry and starting to open to release little black seeds. When you can see the seeds clearly it is time to harvest.

On a glass plate gently tap the picked dry flower head to loosen the seeds. They will come out easily. Allow the flower head to sit on the counter overnight. In the morning you will notice more pods opening up to release more seeds. Grow more scallions from seed again in the fall or share with friends. Store in parchment envelopes or wax paper for later use. Keep the seeds in a dry, dark cool place.

June 25, 2013September 4, 2013

Growing and Using Medicinal Herbs: St. John’s Wort

St. John’s Wort is a sun-loving, hardy perennial, which prefers a more dry soil. However, it isn’t too picky and will adapt in most places. It grows best in zones 3-9 and prefers a Ph of 6 to 7, making it an ideal medicinal plant to grow in Utah. There are many hybrid forms of St. John’s Wort that look pretty and provide pollen for honey bees, however, they do not hold the medicinal properties like the species H. perforatum. When gathering the fresh flowers for use, make sure it is on a sunny day when the buds have just opened. I usually go out every morning and the new ones that have just opened over night. You can tell they are ready because they will leave a reddish purple stain on your fingers. The optimum window for harvesting is usually mid June to the first of July. Some say that the peak of harvest is on June 24th! I have found that I can get a little more as I continue to pick the blossoms on a regular basis. This is another great one to attract honey bees and other pollinators.

Medicinal Uses

St. John’s Wort can be very effective for treating mild depression, anxiety, stress, tension and nerve damage. Like many herbs it needs to be used over a long period of time to feel the full effects, usually 2-3 weeks at a time. It is known that the hyperforin found in the plant is an important constituent contributing to emotional stability by slowing the uptake of the “feel good” neurotransmitters like dopamine, serotonin and noradrenaline, allowing them to circulate longer in the body. A word of caution to some who may become sensitive to the sun. If this is the case discontinue using St. John’s Wort and soak in the vitamin D instead!

St. John’s Wort is also know to be an anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and anti-viral, which makes it useful for treating bacterial and viral infections like shingles and herpes.

St. John’s Wort red rich oil is made from the fresh flowers and is a very good remedy for trauma to the skin. It can be applied topically to soothe and heal bruises, sprains, burns, and injuries of all kinds. It also relieves pain and promotes healthy tissue repair. I add garlic to my St, John’s Wort oil for earaches too!

St. John’s Wort Recipes

As I have gathered St. John’s Wort fresh flowers and buds every morning I have simply kept adding them to the oil. Eventually it will turn a beautiful deep red. This particular oil has garlic added to it. Making it a great oil for earaches. You can certainly make it just with St. John’s Wort too. The best ratio between buds, flowers and leaves for the oil is to use 70% buds and 30% flowers and leaves. Cover the flowers and buds with an inch or two of oil. I like to use olive oil. Set in a sunny window for 2-4 weeks. The deeper the red color, the more powerful the medicinal properties will be. When it’s ready strain and bottle.

To Use:

To use simply spread the oil over a burn, bruise, cut or other skin injury. It can also be used with garlic for an ear oil helping with pain and infection. Use 2-3 drops 3-4x daily.

Another great oil can be made for a skin salve. Use 1 part calendula flowers, 1 part comfrey leaves, 1 part St. John’s Wort leaf and flower. Cover with olive oil by 1-2 inches and let steep for 2-4 weeks. Strain and bottle.

For each cup of medicinal oil, use 1/4 cup beeswax to make a salve. Heat the oil and beeswax together, until the wax is melted. Be careful it is extremely hot! Test to make sure it is the consistency you want, by taking a small spoon, dipping it into the mixture and then putting it into the freezer for a few minutes to see how it sets up. If you want it softer, add more oil. If you want a more firm salv,e add more beeswax. It’s very simple. Once it is the consistency you desire add it immediately to jars and keep in the refrigerator for storage.

St. John’s Wort tincture can be made with either vegetable glycerin or an 80 or 100 proof alcohol like vodka. I like to use vegetable glycerin for my family and the vodka for long term storage. The glycerin tinctures last only 2-3 years. Tinctures made with alcohol can last a very long time. This picture shows the beautiful red medicinal properties being pulled out of the flowers within just a few hours from the alcohol.

Place freshly picked flowers and buds into a glass jar. Fill with a 1:1 ratio of water and vegetable glycerin or straight vodka. Cover with 1-2 inches of liquid and let steep on the counter for 2-4 weeks. Strain and bottle.

To Use:

Use 1/2 to 1 teaspoon tincture twice daily for 3 weeks. Or alternately for 5 days on and 2 days off. This is especially good for those who struggle with mild depression from the darker days in the winter that comes with the changes of the seasons. Be sure to stay active and get as much sunshine as possible. It can also be used for pain in the same way.

June 25, 2013September 4, 2013

Organic Fertilizers and the Health of Our Soil

The soil in our garden is an entirely different world then the one we live in. Hopefully filled with micro-organisms actively moving and alive! Recent work and research done by Dr. Elaine Ingham, a soil microbiologist, has found that the use of toxins, including chemical ferilizers actually harm the good microbes found with in the soil that help control the bad ones, including unwanted diseases. We can liken it to the over use of antibiotics within our own bodies. Many of these drugs as we know have been over prescribed and over used to the point now that we have to use stronger strains to kill off the “bad” bugs that live within our own systems when we get sick. Unfortunately, we also kill the “good” bacteria too, leaving our system vulnerable to more problems if left unattended without a proper diet and efforts to put those “good” bugs back into the system.

Dr. Ingham’s work was recently discussed in one of my favorite books on soil called, “Teaming with Microbes”, by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis. What they found was that the chemical fertilizers actually killed off the microbes within the soil that protected the root systems of the plants and chased away the larger animals like lady beetles and praying mantis’ who keep the pests at bay. It is possible to create an oasis so to speak for these beneficial microbes and insects to do all the fighting for us as mother nature intended, leaving us to simply enjoy gardening! Let’s discuss some of those methods and a few organic fertilizers that help and not hinder the world of microbes.

Compost

One of the most important things we can do every year is to put down some type of good organic compost into the garden beds. This serves a number of purposes. Most compost is made up of small wood chips and animal manure. There are also composts made strictly from plant sources as well like mushrooms, seaweed and alfalfa to name just a few. Worm castings (poop), chicken and horse manures are good options, all are high in nitrogen. Cow manures can be used occasionally, but not often due to it’s higher levels of salts which can be toxic to the soil if over used.

First, the compost acts as a barrier keeping the weeds at bay. Be sure to not plant directly in the compost because the plants need soil to grow. The compost can be mixed in gently into the soil or moved to the side until the plant grows up enough to bring the compost back around it. As a side not I highly recommend a fabulous documentary called “Back to Eden”, a film that can be viewed online for free at backtoedenfim.com. It discusses the importance of using a no-till method and how this protects the micro-organisms in the soil.

Second, compost is full of large organic matter particles that allow for proper drainage and aeration, keeping the root system of our plants healthy. This is particularly important here in Utah since we are very depleted in organic matter. Most healthy soils should have about 5% organic matter, we typically have about 1% or less.

Third, compost is full of dense nutrients that are available to the good microbes who help to break them down turning them into food for plants!

Fish Emulsion

Fish emulsion is an excellent non-burning plant food that comes from manufactured fish waste not used for processing. If you don’t mind your yard smelling like the ocean for a day this can be a great option. It is classified as an organic fertilizer because it is made from material naturally found in nature. Long term use of fish emulsion can help improve the health and microbe complexity of soil. It can be used for all garden beds including flower and vegetable. It is higher in nitrogen than a lot of other organic fertilizers, up to five percent of its nitrogen is readily available, which gives plants a boost while soil microbes break down the rest. Fish emulsion can be used every 3-4 weeks.

Blood and Bone Meal

Both blood and bone meal come from animals. Blood meal is very high in nitrogen and should be used as directed. Bone meal has been known to be a very good root stimulant. It is very high in phosphorus and should also be used as directed. I highly recommend getting your soil tested from your local extension office. They can test your soil for nutrient count and tell you what you need and what you don’t. This is important to know and understand because plants need different nutrients to do different things. For example, nitrogen helps to increase leaf growth and phosphorus helps to increase flower/fruit production. However a word of caution before just applying any fertilizer to your soil, our Utah soils are very high in phosphorus already, so not very much is needed.

Fertilizers with Beneficial Bacteria and Mycorrhizae

There are some great organic fertilizers out there that contain beneficial soil microbes you can add to your soil for all garden beds. For example, mycorrhizae is a beneficial form of fungi that can actually combat powdery mildew and other fungi problems. Mycorrhizae will continue to grow year after year strengthening the soil. They can come in powder, liquid and granulated forms. I like a particular brand called “Garden Bloomers” found at any local nursery. What ever brand or source you choose be sure it’s something that won’t kill off the microbes in your soil. A key concern with inorganic or synthetic fertilizers is that nutrients not immediately taken up by plants can cause pollution. Excess nitrogen fertilizer is a common cause for nitrate groundwater pollution. Phosphate fertilizer runoff can pollute streams, rivers and lakes by encouraging overgrowth and algae that deplete oxygen supplies and kill fish. While organic fertilizers can also cause pollution when used to excess, they are generally much safer to use because they release nutrients gradually, at a rate closer to plants’ need for them.

June 18, 2013September 4, 2013

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly Part 2: Natural Pest Control

During these hot summer months pest problems can become overwhelming if allowed to get out of hand. There are 3 main controls used for keeping pests at bay:

Mechanical – Hand pick insects and eggs off plant.

Biological – Plant certain types of herbs and flowers that attract beneficial insects (this is also known as companion planting).

Chemical – Organic and non-organic chemicals are included in this category.

The struggle between whether or not to spray organic vegetables with chemicals can be a burden. Although chemical pesticides are needed at times, they are over used and can be extremely dangerous to humans, the environment and animals. I recommend using a chemical pesticide as a last resort to save a plant. Be sure to read all labels carefully and discard waste as directed.

“The Bad”

In part 1 we discussed the biological pest control options by attracting “The Good” bugs into our garden.

The bad bugs, if allowed to get out of hand can turn our happy gardening experience into a frustrating nightmare! In part 2 we will go over how to combat the “enemy” with natural pest control methods that are inexpensive and can be made from every day ingredients in our own home, keeping our garden free of chemicals! These are my top 10 pests with natural solutions!

Snails

Snails can be detrimental to the vegetable and flower gardens. They eat pretty much everything and fast because they can multiply quickly! It’s best to get a handle on this pest as soon as possible since they can lay up to 100 eggs within a few days. One of the best ways to get rid of snails is to go out very early in the morning as the sun rises and hand pick snails off plants throwing them into a soapy bucket of water or a seal-able plastic bag to be thrown into an outside garbage can. Another way to rid snails is to put beer or a sugar/yeast and water mixture into a pie plate or tuna cans. Dig the shallow dish into the ground so it is flush with the soil. The snails will be attracted to the beer or sugar/yeast water and drowned. If the infestation is really bad use snail bate, a chemical solution, that can be used to get control of the problem.

Aphids

Aphids are detrimental in numbers! A single aphid can produce up to 600 billion offspring! As you can see from the picture above the damage of many plants can kill a plant or bring it close to death. Some symptoms of aphids on plants are wet honeydew secretions, sticky looking leaves with hundreds of aphids on the under side of them, curling leaves and blossoms that begin become necrotic, making them turn black or even small webbing all over. Aphids feed on sap from shoots, leaves, flowers and buds. These little guys are too little and to large in numbers to mechanically be removed. I like to make a homemade recipe with garlic and liquid soap to spray on them, suffocating their soft bodies.

To make the garlic spray puree 1 bulb of garlic with 1/2 cup water. Add 2 tablespoons plant based liquid dish washing soap and cayenne pepper for a stronger concoction. Allow to steep for a few hours or over night. Pour the mixture through a sieve and cheese cloth. Add more water and the garlic mixture to a spray bottle and spray! Apply every 3-4 days until the problem is eradicated.

Colorado Potato Beetle

These voracious beetles can strip a plant down to it’s roots if uncontrolled. They like to eat potatoes, eggplant, peppers and tomatoes. The best way to combat these pests is to use a number of methods. First pick as many of the beetles by hand, rotate crops every year and use BT (Bacillus thuringiensis tenebrionis) a natural occurring bacteria that makes certain insects sick and die. This product can be purchased at your local nursery.

Japanese Beetles, Grubs and Billbugs

These beetles are not our friends! Especially the Japanese beetle! It will destroy everything in it’s path! The Japanese beetle has a beautiful coppery/green shell. Billbugs and grubs mostly feed on turf grass. One of the best ways to prevent this problem from occurring is to water properly by not watering too much. For all these pest one of the best ways to control them is to use diatomaceous earth or DE. DE is a nontoxic, organic concoction made of the fossilized remains of tiny one-celled marine animals called diatoms. Chemically, it’s almost pure silicone dioxide. To humans, DE feels really soft to the touch, but to grubs it’s like razor wire that literally shreds them as they touch it. DE can be found at any health food store or local nursery.

Sprinkle 1/2 cup of DE to a square foot of soil or sod and mix it into the soil to a depth of about six inches. DE can cause respiratory problems, so wear a mask and work with it on a non-windy day. DE can also harm beneficial insects, such as earthworms, so use only where grubs are a problem.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are microscopic and can sometimes be seen with the naked eye. What is most prominently seen are their webs. They feed on leaf sap similar to aphids. Watch for speckling or bronzing color on the leaves. The garlic spray I mentioned above is effective as well as using rubbing alcohol. Mixing alcohol with water and spraying your plants will help get rid of spider mites naturally without damaging the plants. You can mix 1 part alcohol to 1 or 2 parts water for maximum effectiveness. You can also use a cotton ball dipped in straight rubbing alcohol to gently rub the spider mites on the bottom of the leaves of your plants that are indoors. Alcohol will kill the spider mites on contact. Remember to use this method in the evening so the alcohol will evaporate without the sun causing burn to the leaves.

Peach Tree Borer

The dreaded peach tree borer can be difficult to fight off especially if the tree is already infested! It can be very sad to watch our beloved peach trees slowly die overtime from this nasty pest! In the picture on the left you can see the adult. She will lay her eggs at the base of the tree and the larva will borer into the bark of the tree and feed on the wood. The best way to prevent this problem from happening is to faithfully cultivate the soil 2-3 feet from the trunk out and 2-3 inches deep every 2 weeks during the late spring and summer. This will expose the eggs to the elements and they will not be able to survive. Planted garlic and other onion family members have been known to ward off the peach tree moth from laying eggs because of its strong odor.

Squash Bugs

My arch nemesis! Squash bugs can take over in no time if you don’t know what you are looking for! These life sucking insects literally suck the water right out of the plant in just a few hours, leaving it looking like it hasn’t been watered in weeks. The plant leaves become droopy, necrotic and black. A good fierce spray of the hose will bring the adults out from underneath their hiding places making it easier to hand pick them. Be sure to have a soapy bucket of water for them to drowned in! The copper colored eggs can be found on the undersides of the leaves in a cluster. Be sure to remove as many as you can and crush them, then throwing them into the bucket of soapy water. It is best to go out every day for a few minutes and remove them by hand until they are all gone. If that isn’t good enough try using Neem Oil. This organic chemical comes from the seeds of the neem tree. Neem oil interferes with insect hormones leaving them unable to grow and reproduce. When using any pesticide, including organic products, be sure to read all labels and use as directed. Neem oil is also toxic for honey bees. It is best to apply before 7am or after 7pm when most beneficial insects have left for the evening.

Leaf Miners

Leaf miners love to eat spinach, Swiss chard, beet greens and other leafy greens. The adult fly lays little white eggs on the back of the leaf. Once hatched they burrow into the inner layer of the leaves, leaving trails of dead vegetation in their wake. The best way to keep these under control is to plant nectar and pollen loving plants that attract parasitic wasps. See part one for a brief list. Using fabric row covers is an excellent way to keep them away. Cover in the spring and bury the edges of the row cover around the grow box or soil. Use a light enough fabric to allow water and sun penetration for growth. If you choose not to use the fabric row cover it is important to look for the eggs as the first of the greens start to grow. Remove them if you see any until the problem has stopped. Neem oil can be used as a last resort.

Tomato Horn Worm

Just thinking about these buggers gives me the willies! They can be 3-4 inches long and have massive appetites! A hawk or sphinx moth lays the eggs on plants like peppers, tomatoes and potatoes. They blend in well with the green foliage and can be difficult to see. If detected early enough the plant will survive. The best way to control the worm is to hand pick them and throw them into a bucket of soapy water (definitely wear gloves). What is even cooler is when the braconid wasp lays it’s little white eggs on the worm feeding on it’s flesh until it’s ready ready to pupate. If such projections appear it is best to leave the horn worm alone and let nature take care of nature. This way you will have more beneficial insects to fight off the bad!

June 18, 2013September 4, 2013

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly Part 1: Natural Pest Control

During these hot summer months pest problems can become overwhelming if allowed to get out of hand. There are 3 main controls used for keeping pests at bay:

Mechanical – Hand pick insects and eggs off plant.

Biological – Plant certain types of herbs and flowers that attract beneficial insects (this is also known as companion planting).

Chemical – Organic and non-organic chemicals are included in this category.

“The Good”

In part 1 we will discuss some of “The Good” bugs that prey on the bad. These types of bugs are easy to attract and can fight most of the battle for us! The trick is to plant the right kind of herbs and flowers that provide nectar, pollen and ground cover for those beneficial bugs to come into the garden. Some of these plants also provide strong scents to deter and confuse other pests. A few of the beautiful and beneficial plants you can grow are: marigolds, basil, dill, fennel, parsley, asters, echinacea, onions and garlic for their strong pungent smells. And chamomile, cosmos, nasturtiums, petunias, calendula, tansy and zinnias for their nectar and ground cover to hide predatory insects. There are so many more plants I could name, but just don’t have the time! I recommend getting the book, “Great Garden Companions”, by Sally Jean Cunningham for more information! For now I want to show you my top 10 “Good Bugs” that prey on the ones we don’t want in our garden!

Lady Beetle

Lady bugs are just 1 of 400 lady beetles found in North America. Adults and larva feed on soft bodied insects like aphids. Most adults need to feed on flower pollen or nectar to reproduce.

Lacewing

Lacewings are pale green or brown in color. Adults mostly feed on nectar. Lacewing larva, however, are voracious predators that feed on aphids, thrips, scales, moth eggs, small caterpillars and mites. This is one bug you want in your garden!

Ground Beetles

Ground beetles are large, long-legged and shiny black or brown. They hide under rocks or ground covering plants in the day and move fast when disturbed. They feed on slugs, snails, cutworms, root maggots, and Colorado potato beetle larva. Attract these beneficial beetles by growing ground covering petunias and using boulders or logs in the landscape. Rove beetles resemble earwigs without pincers, and feed on many insects similar to the ground beetle.

Parasitic Wasp

There are hundreds of species of wasps, including many that are so tiny you can barely see them. These mini-wasps often attack the eggs of pests, and are one of the most important insect groups that provide control of . Attract these beneficial bugs by growing nectar and pollen rich plants.

Garden Spider

All spiders feed on insects and are very important for preventing pest outbreaks. The spiders normally found in gardens do not move indoors, nor are they poisonous. Permanent perennial plantings and straw mulches will provide shelter and dramatically increase spider populations in the vegetable gardens.

Tachinid Fly

Although Tachinid flies look similar to the house fly, these insects are important enemies of cutworms, army-worms, tent caterpillars, cabbage loopers, moths, saw flies, Japanese beetles, squash bugs and sow bugs. Attract the Tachinid fly by planting nectar and pollen rich plants.

Dragon Fly

There are more than 80 species of dragon flies. They vary in all colors and sizes, ranging from 1-2 inches in length. Their larva are found in water. Dragon flies eat aphids, mosquitoes and other pest bugs. Dragon flies has decreased in population dramatically as wetland areas have become developed and taken away. If you want to see dragon flies in your garden provide a small pond or water feature to attract these beautiful insects!

Honey Bee

Honey bees are important pollinators to many plants. They can often be identified by the pollen baskets they carry on the backs of their legs and fuzzy body. They tend to be lighter in color compared to the wasp or hornet they are so often mistaken for. The best way to attract honey bees is to grow plants with lots of pollen and nectar, many are listed above. Did you know that pollinating insects are worth well over $8 billion dollars our economy every year!

Assassin Bug

There are 3,000 known species of assassin bugs! They are voracious predators of a wide variety of insects, including aphids, caterpillars, cucumber beetles, ear wigs, leaf hoppers and many more. They inject their prey with a lethal toxin from their beak that liquifies their innards and then sucks out the contents. They have been known to shoot venom at their enemies from a foot away!

Praying Mantis

These insects have big appetites, feeding on both beneficial and pest insects! They can strike their prey within 50 milliseconds, making them one of the fastest animals on earth!

Ladybugs

are just 1 of 400 of lady beetles found in North America. Adults and larva feed on soft bodied insects like aphids. Most adults need to feed on pollen or flower nectar to reproduce.

June 12, 2013September 4, 2013

Growing and Using Herbs: Cilantro

There aren’t too many things that are better than fresh homemade salsa with cilantro form the garden! It also has some amazing health benefits too! This is a picture I took back in May from cilantro seeds I grew last fall. It had only come up maybe an inch before the weather got cold and the days became shorter and stopped growing. As the snow covered the ground during the winter it helped to insulate the little cilantro leaves just enough to protect it from the hard cold temperatures we had.

Cilantro is known for being an effective toxic metal cleanser! It is a powerful herb with natural cleansing properties. The chemical compounds in cilantro bind to toxic metals and loosen them from the tissue. Many people suffering from mercury exposure report a reduction in re-occurring feelings of disorientation after consuming large and regular amounts of cilantro over an extended period. Make sure the cilantro you use is organic, otherwise it may have already pulled those toxins into the plant! The best way to know for sure is to grow it yourself or buy from a reliable organic source! Cilantro also has strong antioxidant properties, has been known to aid in improving sleep and also has very strong anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties.

I often get the question, “How can I make my cilantro last a little longer in the garden? It always seems to bolt quickly.” It can bolt quickly, especially when the temperatures become warmer. I plant my cilantro seeds (coriander) every two weeks so I am constantly harvesting throughout the growing season. It also reseeds itself very easily if you let it flower and allow the flowers to dry and produce seed. The seeds you sow in the spring will produce more seed from mature plants. As they drop to the ground you may find new little cilantro plants start to come up in the fall and even the following spring. Cilantro grows well in rich, well draining soil and does not like to be removed once it has been planted either by direct seed or transplanting. It prefers full sun, but will grow in some shade too. Sow the seeds 1/2″ deep and thin every 4-6 inches. When using cilantro for cooking, use the young leaves that are broad and shiny. They tend to be less bitter and add incredible flavor to many dishes! Here are a few of my favorite recipes using cilantro!

Recipe:

This homemade guacamole is so good, you may find that after one taste, there won’t be any left to share with others! This is one of our family favorites and it is so good for you!

4 medium or 3 large ripe avocados, smashed

1/2 red onion, finely chopped

2 serrano peppers, seeded and minced (add more seeds later to increase heat)

2 limes, juiced

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

salt and pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients together in a medium size bowl and serve with organic corn chips or on a whole grain tortilla! Delicious!

A delicious and refreshing salad! A great addition to any meal!

Recipe:

8 cups shredded red leaf lettuce (1-2 heads)

2 cups cooked or canned black beans, rinsed and drained

2 cups bite-sized sweet red pepper strips

2 cups frozen or fresh corn kernals

1/4 cup cilantro (about 1 bunch)

1/4 cup orange juice

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup organic canola oil

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Combine in large bowl the lettuce, beans, peppers, corn kernels and cilantro.

For dressing combine the remaining ingredients listed in a tightly sealed jar or Tupperware bowl and shake until mixed well. Drizzle over salad. Eat immediately.

Perfect for lunch or a side for dinner! This super healthy and delicious recipe is so simple! I got it out of one of my favorite recipe books called, “Quinoa, The Everyday Super Food”.

Recipe:

2 cups water

1 cup quinoa, uncooked

1/3 cup olive oil

1/3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

4 tsp. apple cider vinegar

2 1/2 tsp. ground cumin1 jalapeno, seeded and minced

1 1/4 cup frozen corn kernels, thawed

1 chopped red bell pepper

1 (15oz.) can black beans, rinsed and drained

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

2 avocado,s chopped

sea salt and pepper to taste

Cook quinoa with the water in a rice cooker or on the stove like you would rice. While that is cooking. mix together the olive oil, lime juice and vinegar in a small bowl. Once the quinoa has finished cooking and has slightly cooled, place the dressing over the quinoa in a large bowl and allow the warm quinoa to infuse the flavors. Chop and add the rest of the ingredients to the quinoa and check to see if more salt and pepper is needed. Can be kept in an airtight container for up to 3 days in the fridge.

June 12, 2013September 4, 2013

Growing and Using Herbs: Chamomile

Chamomile is one of my favorite herbs! It’s fragrance has a light hint of apple with earthy undertones! Chamomile is an annual grown easily from seed or starts form your local nursery. It has very calming effects on the nervous system and is a great digestive aid! Whenever I feel as though my day has all but done me in, I make myself a cup of tea, sit back and read a good book! Most of my chamomile grew from reseeding itself last year and popped up perfectly around the small brick wall surrounding my peach tree. It’s very easy to grow and likes well draining, poor soil if you can believe it, hence it growing practically in the compact sand I have around my garden boxes! …well it’s better than weeds! 🙂

Chamomile has many benefits!

It relaxes the muscles in the uterine wall relieving menstrual cramps.
Is an excellent sleep aid.
Chamomile soothes stomachache muscles to help alleviate bowel problems and aids in digestion.
Because of the antibacterial properties found in chamomile, a cup of hot tea can help fight common colds.
Apply a paste of chamomile flowers on wounds to make them heal faster, improving the quality of skin from the oil of the flower.
Chamomile tea is good for preventing the escalation of diabetic ailments.

How to harvest and make chamomile tea:

Here is a link to a perfect video on how to harvest your chamomile!

Essentially you are going to want to harvest the flowers just as they open up and create a nice flat disc. Once the petals begin to curve down, they are bit past their prime. At this point you can either still harvest or allow them to go to seed. Here is a great video on how to save the seeds. Keep harvesting the flowers and you will keep getting more and more!

Once you have plucked the chamomile flowers from the plant spread across a paper towel and allow to dry completely, about 5-7 days.

Once completely dried, place inside a glass container to stay fresh for1 year.

When I make tea from my own herbs I like to use a 2-1/2 mesh ball. This keeps the herbs contained and allows them to steep appropriately. To make tea with your chamomile flowers, boil a few cups of purified water. Fill your mesh tea infuser with your herb of choice and place in either a tea cup or in the tea kettle once off the heat. Never boil herbs.

Allow the herbs to steep in the hot water for 15 minutes. Enjoy!

June 9, 2013September 4, 2013

Growing and Using Medicinal Herbs: Raspberry Leaves

Growing Raspberries

Every garden cannot be complete without a raspberry patch! Those delicious sweet juicy red berries are one of God’s greatest gifts to man in my opinion! I grow mine where they can’t take over to quickly, inside a garden box with the house on one side and the driveway on the other. They really love to spread! Raspberries are native to Utah and grow well up in the mountains! They prefer to have morning sun so they will do best on the east side of a garage, shed or house. Make sure they get at least 8 hours of sunlight to produce fruit. They are big water feeders and really prefer to be mulched with compost to keep the moisture in and regulated. Raspberries are very easy to grow, however they can be prone to iron chlorosis. I will give mine a dose of chelated iron (slow release) every 4-5 weeks to keep the leaves green and health.

Using Raspberry Leaves

Raspberry leaves have been known as a female herb for centuries.

Many people including myself have used it to strengthen the uterine wall while relaxing the smooth muscle inside the uterus to help alleviate cramps. Some even claim that it improves the chances of implantation and decrease the risk of having a miscarriage. The leaves are also full of vitamins, minerals, and plant compounds that help the body to detoxify excess hormones that may impede conception.

During pregnancy, one cup of tea can help with morning sickness, strengthen the baby in utero with all the nutritional benefits it provides and has been reported to reduce leg cramps and swelling in late pregnancy. The tea benefits the labor process as well, strengthening and shortening the durations of contractions. The benefits raspberry leaf tea provides for mother and baby after birth are rich breast milk due to the high levels of minerals as well as helping to regulate postpartum hormones bringing mom back to a healthy state of mind. Some women need to be cautious while using raspberry tea during pregnancy if they have experienced C-section (past or planned), premature labor, bleeding during pregnancy, expecting twins or any other complications. Always talk to your health care provider first before taking any supplements during pregnancy.

Even if you are not interested in getting pregnant raspberry leaf tea can help reduce cramping and regulate hormones, decreasing PMS.

The nice thing about raspberry leaf tea is that it is a balanced food so it’s safe for virtually everyone at every stage of life. My 8 year old daughter loves to drink it!

Harvesting Raspberry Leaves

The best time to harvest raspberry leaves is in the late spring through early summer. I cut enough every year to fill a gallon glass jar with dried leaves. It’s easiest to dry the leaves in a dehydrator, but you can do it outside in the shade of a tree on a screen too.

Once the leaves are dry, place them in a cool dark place. They should keep for a few years.

Emily’s Favorite Tea Blend

1 tablespoon dried raspberry leaves

1 tablespoon dried chamomile flowers

1 tablespoon dried peppermint leaves

4 cups purified boiling water removed from the heat. Place the herbs in a tea infuser and let steep in hot water for 15-20 minutes. Enjoy!

June 9, 2013September 4, 2013

Growing and Using Medicinal Herbs: Comfrey

Comfrey is a wonderful herb with multiple benefits! The plant is very easy to grow and can be harvested multiple times a season. It grows well in full sun and well draining soil. One of my favorite comfrey products I use is a salve called Dr. Christopher’s Complete Bone and Tissue for all my physical aliments! It contains comfrey and other herbs. It is simply magical! As a fitness instructor for over 10 years who teaches multiple classes a week my body has begun to… well let’s say get a little older and over used so to speak. I have a bulging lower disc in my spine, knee pain and a weak rotator cuff. Whenever anything starts to flare up I put the salve on a few times a day and within a couple days I am back to normal again! I cannot say enough about comfrey!

Medical Benefits of Comfrey

Comfrey is good for fracture healing and bone lesions.
Comfrey is beneficial for treatment of muscle tears, sprains, strains, and dislocations.
Comfrey helps in arthritic conditions of bursitis, tendinitis, and torticollis.
Comfrey treats arthritis such as rheumatoid arthritis and osteoarthritis.
Comfrey is good for treating bunions and deformities of extremities.
Comfrey helps in treating intervertebral disc lesions and herniated discs.
Comfrey is good for circulatory system and improves poor circulation and varices.
Comfrey treats skin deformities like minor wounds, minor burns, fistulas, and psoriasis.
There are millions of comfrey natural products available in the market, the most prominent of which is comfrey gel which helps in treatment of some types of eczema, cracks in breasts, and varicose ulcers
For more info go here

Harvesting Comfrey

Here is an excellent video on how to harvest comfrey!

There is controversy over whether comfrey should be ingested or not. Studies have shown that comfrey taken internally can be dangerous due to it’s high levels of alkaloids, potentially harming the liver. However, the studies are a bit misleading in my opinion. They do show that the alkaloids could be dangerous, but that is because very large amounts were taken internally. More so than what the average person would normally ingest, however it is important to use caution. I know many people who have taken it internally and are just fine.

You can make a basic salve recipe with the dried comfrey leaves and roots. Anytime you use a root over the leaf or flower of the plant it will always have stronger constituents.

The first step in making your own medicinal salve is to make a solar infused herb oil. This can even be done with herbs for cooking. Fill a clean and dry wide mouth jar with dried herb leaves or roots. Cover with 2 inches of good olive oil. Cover tightly and allow to sit in a warm sunny spot for 2-4 weeks. The longer you allow it to sit the stronger it will become. You might expect the oils to go rancid, however as long as the herbs are infusing the oils they won’t due to the antioxidant properties found naturally in plants.

Strain the herbs through a sieve after the oil has been infused.

Strain further into a cheese cloth or piece of muslin. Be sure to squeeze the last bits of oil from the drained herbs into the bowl.

Now the salve is ready to be made!

Basic Salve Recipe

For each cup of infused herb oil, add 1/4 cup (finely chopped or shredded) beeswax. Heat the oil and beeswax together over very low heat, stirring occasionally, until the beeswax has melted.

To ensure the salve is the thickness you desire, place 1 tablespoon of the mixture onto a spoon and put in the freezer for a minute or two. Then check for firmness of the salve. Add more beeswax if you desire a more firm ointment. For a softer salve add more oil.

Once the mixture is the consistency you want pour immediately into small glass jars or tins. Be careful the oil is extremely hot! I get me supplies from here.

Store salve in a cool, dark place, where it will keep for several months. Add essential oils to enhance aroma and medicinal purposes.